Hope the drums are good and I'll find out on Saturday when I haul everything into the vendor. This is below allowed so looks like new brakes too. I also discovered there is only about 1/8th inch of front brake shoe lining left. While under there, I found the loose king pin, greased the front end moving parts very well, adjusted the clutch brake for better operation and adjusted the clutch for exactly 1.5" free pedal at the top, and 1.5" clutch brake squeeze from the floor. The truck will be apart so get it done right! I actually had the truck jacked up by the front engine xmember to check for spring pin bushing wear, and grease it up really good. There are no top caps on either side! (Go figure) The right side seems to be tight but I'll not replace only a single side as you mention cause they both must be worn. The left side pin has about 1/4" free movement at the top of the tire. If you use air grease gun, the pressure will blow cap off! I think it would have been better if mack would have made it threaded like the bottom and use the same key. Its an easy way of cheating to get more life out of pin that wasn't greased enough! The problem I have seen with the set up is the top cap some times doesn't want to stay in, I've tried "green" locktite but still pop out as they are hand press. Is the "adjustment" just a preliminary install item and is never touched again for the service life of the king pin and knuckle assembly, or do these things require periodic adjustment to compensate for wear of the thrust bearing for instance? The tapered portion of the pin should never wear if logic is correct. If my understanding is correct, the taper of the king pin and socket keeps the pin from rotating in it's respective bore, but the wear surfaces are the upper, and lower bushings, along with the thrust bearing in the bottom between the spindle, and axle beam. My question is why are these things called "adjustable"? I have the adjusting socket/tool and after rebuilding the assembly with new pins, bushings, and bearings, you install the top cap, thread in the bottom plug, adjust it up snug seating the tapered king pin into the tapered socket of the axle beam, and install a cotter key to keep the plug from backing out. My daughter will run "chase" tonight to isolate further, but It needs new king pins and that's not a big deal. This thing has a shake at 43mph and goes away right at 46-47mph all to way to governed speed, (80mph+). Got me a question starting from finding a left side king pin sloppy in my R612ST.
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